This Q&A is a part of Observer’s Knowledgeable Insights collection, the place business leaders, innovators and strategists distill years of expertise into direct, sensible takeaways and ship readability on the problems shaping their industries. As legacy mall staples falter and shopper expectations reset, the jewellery and piercing sector is present process a quiet but consequential transformation, pushed much less by value or pattern cycles and extra by expertise, belief and self-expression.
Few manufacturers sit nearer to that shift than Studs. Based to modernize ear piercing for a brand new technology, the corporate has helped reframe what was as soon as a commoditized, usually rushed service right into a design-forward, hospitality-led expertise. On the heart of that evolution is Anna Harman, co-founder and CEO of Studs, who has constructed the enterprise round needle-based piercing, rigorous coaching requirements and a deeply researched understanding of how Gen Z and millennials method id, model and retail.
Harman’s perspective comes at a second of inflection. Claire’s current chapter submitting has reignited debate concerning the well being of the industrial jewellery business, however as Harman explains, the decline of 1 dominant participant doesn’t sign a shrinking market. Relatively, it underscores a generational handoff. At this time’s shopper is older, extra knowledgeable and much much less keen to compromise on security, supplies or aesthetics. They arrive armed with terminology discovered on-line, references saved from social feeds and a transparent expectation that piercing ought to really feel private, celebratory and well-designed.
Underneath Harman’s management, Studs has leaned into piercing as a long-term artistic apply, popularizing the concept of “Earscaping” and constructing programs that help consistency at scale. The result’s a enterprise mannequin that sits on the intersection of knickknack, magnificence and way of life, formed as a lot by digital communities as by in-person expertise.
Claire’s chapter submitting has put a highlight on the jewellery and piercing sector. What does their collapse reveal concerning the state of the industrial jewellery business right this moment?
The ear piercing market is definitely booming, it’s simply extremely fragmented. Numerous nationwide retail chains and native boutiques provide ear piercings with weapons (typically referred to as “hand-pressurized gadgets”). Claire’s remains to be the place lots of people have their first nostalgic piercing second, and that’s necessary. However as soon as the client ages up, usually into their late teenagers and twenties, they’re searching for a extra elevated and personalised needle piercing expertise. That’s the place Studs is available in.
Past Claire’s, what broader shopper and retail developments are reshaping how folks, particularly youthful customers, method jewellery and piercing?
We’re seeing ear piercing observe the identical cultural patterns as magnificence and style, developments now unfold via social media, superstar affect and area of interest communities, and prospects present up wanting the seems they’ve found on-line. Folks arrive with particular seems they’ve seen on-line and a powerful sense of how they wish to specific themselves.
Office norms have additionally shifted dramatically over the previous decade, particularly post-pandemic and as Gen Z has entered the workforce. A number of piercings, tattoos, and extra individualized model was once thought of “taboo” in {many professional} environments. That’s not the case. Persons are bringing their full selves to work, and Earscaping®—getting and styling a number of ear piercings—has turn out to be an accessible, expressive manner to try this.
Digital habits performs a big position. Gen Z and younger millennials analysis completely, study piercing terminology on-line and count on manufacturers to satisfy them with schooling and clear details about supplies, therapeutic and security.
The place do you see the strongest demand within the jewellery sector proper now, and which segments are underneath probably the most stress?
We’re seeing the strongest demand in high-quality, on a regular basis jewellery—items you possibly can put on 24/7 with out pondering twice. Our flatback studs proceed to be bestsellers as a result of they’re snug, safe and protected for delicate ears. It’s an enormous shift away from conventional butterfly backs that poke or get caught. We’re additionally seeing clickers turn out to be the brand new go-to as an alternative of traditional hoops, particularly for patrons with extra superior cartilage piercings. And curiosity in lab-grown stones retains rising as a result of they provide the glint and longevity folks need at a way more accessible value.
As a result of so a lot of our prospects have 5 or extra piercings, they’re approaching their ears a bit like a canvas. They’re not searching for matching pairs—they’re curating an entire Earscape®. That’s why we deal with singles and maintain the assortment tight and intentional moderately than providing a whole bunch of overwhelming choices.
And actually, we’re seeing this play out in actual time in our studios. We’ll have prospects are available in and say, “I would like one other piercing as a result of I simply purchased these wonderful designer earrings and I want one other spot to put on them.” High quality jewellery designers are styling their campaigns with a number of piercings and stacked seems, and customers are coming in excited to recreate that vitality. It’s been enjoyable to look at that inspiration translate immediately into habits.
Zooming out, the broader jewellery market is certainly feeling some stress—rising gold costs, the fast adoption of lab-grown gems and a extra discerning, research-driven shopper. At this time’s buyer is studying opinions, watching movies and wanting clear high quality requirements earlier than they purchase. The manufacturers struggling most are those that haven’t tailored to that stage of scrutiny.
How do you see piercing becoming into the jewellery business’s evolution? Has it shifted from a commoditized service to an experience-driven enterprise?
Completely. Piercing has turn out to be an expertise folks usually share with associates or household, or select to mark a second of their lives. Expectations round security, piercing jewellery design and total vibe are considerably larger than they have been ten or fifteen years in the past.
Earlier than Studs, there was no nationwide model centered on needle piercing that mixed hospitality, schooling and design in a constant and welcoming surroundings. The expertise itself is now a basic a part of how folks interact with jewellery, and that shift has expanded the class total.
Studs has branded piercing as a way of life and self-expression class moderately than a commodity. How important is that repositioning to your long-term success?
We noticed that individuals have been approaching their piercings as a long-term artistic course of.
Clients come again to Studs to construct their Earscape® over time—months and years—it’s not only for a one-and-done service. We trademarked the time period Earscaping® quickly after we launched the enterprise to outline the artwork and science of adorning your ear with ear piercings and earrings. Our prospects have between 5 and 7 piercings, and as soon as a shopper will get pierced at Studs, 40 % return for an additional buy with us.
What are the dangers of scaling a service like piercing, and the way is Studs navigating high quality management and shopper belief at scale?
The most important danger is inconsistency—in security, method or buyer expertise. There isn’t any nationwide piercing licensing course of or magnificence college. That’s why we constructed Studs Academy, our customized piercing apprenticeship program. It’s a paid, multi-week coaching that covers sterilization, bedside method, precision method and security. We’ve educated a whole bunch of piercers throughout the nation via a deeply structured curriculum to make sure a wonderful piercing and hospitality expertise throughout our studios nationwide. Taking this stage of care ensures that regardless of which Studs studio somebody visits, they obtain the identical excessive normal of care. Belief is constructed via experience, clear communication and constant execution, and we make investments closely in all three.
How do you concentrate on balancing accessibility and affordability with premium positioning in piercing and jewellery?
We maintain our requirements premium and our pricing clear. Piercings begin at $35 for one, $50 for 2 and scale up, and jewellery ranges from $35 to $120+. That lets prospects take part at no matter stage feels proper for them. Premium, to me, is about experience and security. Accessibility is about making it simple for folks to precise themselves with no huge value barrier.
Who’s the “core shopper” driving development in piercing right this moment, and the way totally different are their expectations in comparison with previous generations who grew up with Claire’s?
Our core buyer is of their mid-twenties— the median age is 27—they usually have already got 5 to seven piercings. Whereas we actually do first lobes, most individuals are coming in for his or her fifth or sixth placement, usually one thing extra superior like a tragus or conch. They wish to be pierced with a needle, not a gun, by a educated knowledgeable who takes them via a personalised session. They usually’re searching for cute, high-quality earrings they will comfortably put on for the 4 to 6 months it takes for a brand new piercing to heal earlier than they will swap jewellery.
We’re seeing Gen Z and youthful Millennials drive a lot of the demand for personalised, identity-driven merchandise. How has that formed Studs’ product and repair design?
We constructed our retail expertise particularly for Gen Z and millennial customers. Getting an ear piercing is enjoyable and celebratory, and it’s usually one thing folks wish to doc and share. We designed our studios to be deliberately vivid, fashionable and content-friendly with nice lighting and mirrors as a result of capturing content material of the method is a part of the ritual.
Daring and surprising partnerships additionally play an enormous position in shaping how we meet these customers the place they’re. We’ve collaborated with beloved nationwide meals manufacturers like Din Tai Fung, Shake Shack and Van Leeuwen. And we’ve partnered with provocative web personalities like Serena Kerrigan and DeuxMoi. These sorts of collaborations enable Studs to indicate up organically within the cultural conversations and viral obsessions that already resonate with Gen Z.
What classes ought to different jewellery and equipment manufacturers take from Claire’s decline? What pitfalls ought to they keep away from?
Gen Z and millennial customers received’t accept outdated retail experiences. They count on experience, transparency and environments that really feel fashionable and intentional. They learn opinions, watch movies, evaluate supplies and search for manufacturers that align with their values. In case your retail expertise will not be evolving with how this technology outlets, discovers and expresses themselves, you’re going to fall behind, no matter your class.
What position do you see e-commerce and digital communities taking part in in an experience-based enterprise like piercing?
Digital is absolutely the entrance door for us. Most individuals discover Studs on-line earlier than they ever e-book, and that’s the place the schooling begins: what a conch piercing is, how therapeutic works, when to come back in for a downsize, all of it. Social can also be the place our group lives and grows. Folks share their new piercings, ask questions on styling or therapeutic recommendation and get impressed for a way they may replace their look subsequent.
I usually say that nobody is getting piercings to have holes of their ears: the intention is to put on cute jewellery. For purchasers who might not stay close to a Studs Studio but, they will nonetheless store our earrings on-line and regulate the place we’re opening new places quickly. So though the precise piercing can solely occur in particular person, the continuing connection—the training, the inspiration, the buying—all of that’s occurring digitally, too. It’s a pure omnichannel loop.
How do you see the piercing and jewellery business evolving over the following 5 years? What is going to separate the leaders from those that lag behind?
The business will proceed to professionalize. Shoppers are asking for extra transparency, clearer requirements and deeper experience. Manufacturers that make investments meaningfully in coaching, schooling and considerate design will probably be well-positioned. The businesses that succeed would be the ones that create actual connection and readability for his or her prospects and frequently adapt to how folks wish to specific themselves.
