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Home»Science»How Fowl Flu Went from Devastating Poultry Farms to Infecting Dairy Herds
Science

How Fowl Flu Went from Devastating Poultry Farms to Infecting Dairy Herds

VernoNewsBy VernoNewsJuly 7, 2025No Comments20 Mins Read
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How Fowl Flu Went from Devastating Poultry Farms to Infecting Dairy Herds
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Rachel Feltman: For Scientific American’s Science Shortly, I’m Rachel Feltman. You’re listening to half two of our three-part collection on the battle in opposition to fowl flu.

(You possibly can take heed to episode one right here and episode three right here.)

On Monday we adopted flocks of untamed birds to find out how new strains of avian influenza emerge and unfold. Immediately we’re headed out to pasture to take a look at the subsequent hyperlink within the chain from shorebird to human: poultry and dairy farms.


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Our host right now is Meghan Bartels, a senior information reporter at Scientific American. Right here’s Meghan now.

Meghan Bartels: It’s a transparent spring day in central New York. It’s solely 5:00 A.M., so it’s nonetheless almost pitch-black out, however the birds are singing.

[CLIP: Birds chirp.]

Bartels: I’m in entrance of Cornell College’s Instructing Dairy Barn, and I’m right here to see how milk enters our meals provide—and the way fowl flu has contaminated the cows making that milk.

Carolyn Kokko: Right here’s our milking parlor. It’s a double 10, so we’ve bought 10 stalls on one aspect, 10 on the opposite, parallel. And we’ve got two milking technicians. Largely there’s one right here within the pit; one other one will assist push up, additionally scrape the pens, clear issues out whereas the cows aren’t within the pen after which come and assist out in right here.

Bartels: That’s Carolyn Kokko, director of the Instructing Dairy Barn, which is house to about 200 cows, most of whom are actively lactating.

A technician checks milking equipment in Cornell College’s Instructing Dairy Barn in Ithaca, N.Y.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

Meaning they have to be milked on daily basis, thrice a day, for about 10 months straight. Carolyn says it takes about two hours to get by means of the complete herd throughout every milking.

Milkers Kevin and Mike: Hup, hup, hup!

Bartels: The cows aren’t notably involved with making issues go any quicker, so the milkers nudge the animals alongside as 10 of them file into either side of the milking parlor—heads dealing with out, tails in. Every cow wears a collar with an RFID chip that the milking machine acknowledges, tallying who produces how a lot milk every day.

As soon as a bunch is in, the milkers prep every cow, wiping off any bedding materials from their udders, sanitizing their teats and getting somewhat milk from them manually to verify it seems to be regular. Immediately at Cornell everybody’s milk passes inspection. However that hasn’t been the case for greater than 1,000 dairy herds in 17 states throughout the nation over the previous yr or so.

In February 2024 dairy farmers in Texas began noticing cows who had been below the climate. The animals weren’t consuming nicely, and their milk was popping out thick and discolored.

Elisha Frye: One other veterinarian who’s an alumni at Cornell known as me as a result of I knew him once we had been vet college students, and he stated, “There’s this thriller illness going by means of Texas, and it’s hit my farm now.”

Bartels: That’s Elisha Frye, a veterinarian on the Cornell Animal Well being Diagnostic Heart.

Frye: So I stated, “Ship me milk, and ship me blood, and swab their noses, and ship me some fecal samples, and we’re gonna simply see what we will do.” I bear in mind he had stated there have been 200,000 sick cows within the space, and I didn’t consider him as a result of that was such a excessive quantity.

Bartels: Elisha and her colleagues acquired the samples and set to work. At this level, she says, scientists had been antsy sufficient about pinning down what it was that was making the cows sick that the crew determined to skip the essential diagnostics, which methodically rule out numerous recognized bugs. As an alternative the scientists went straight to genetically sequencing what they discovered within the samples.

Frye: Sequencing is once you simply search for a pathogen in a pattern. It’s sort of casting a really extensive web.

Bartels: Inside days Cornell and two different testing labs had recognized the offender: H5N1, a subtype of avian influenza, or fowl flu. It was a stunning discovery, even for these accustomed to following the illness, like Wendy Puryear of Tufts College, who talked to my colleague Lauren Younger within the earlier episode.

Wendy Puryear: Dairy cattle have actually simply thrown all the principles out the window and every little thing that we thought we knew. Actually none of us had this on our bingo card going into dairy cattle.

A gloved hand holds up a tray of vials filled with a white liquid

John Beeby of the Animal Well being Diagnostic Heart of Cornell College holds up samples of milk that will probably be examined for avian influenza, or H5N1.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

Bartels: We’ll come again to cattle, but it surely’s price taking a step again to grasp the larger image of fowl flu in domesticated species. As we discovered in episode considered one of this three-part collection, avian influenza has been circulating for an extended, very long time.

The H5N1 pressure that made the stunning leap into cows traces its roots all the best way again to China within the late Nineties. From there it hitched rides world wide with migrating birds like these congregating on the shores of Delaware Bay. And it mutated all alongside the best way.

What’s now answerable for the outbreak was first detected in wild birds within the U.S. on December 30, 2021. Inside only a few weeks, on February 7, 2022, it had contaminated a business hen farm.

That wasn’t almost as stunning because the bounce into dairy. U.S. poultry farmers have confronted fowl flu outbreaks earlier than from different subtypes of the virus. For instance, in an outbreak of H5N2 and H5N8 fowl flus from 2014 to 2015 farmers misplaced greater than 50 million poultry birds.

From these earlier outbreaks poultry farmers knew firsthand how devastating fowl flu may very well be when it was considered one of these extremely pathogenic strains, which kill at the least 75 % of poultry in a business flock.

Mike Persia: Sadly, it’s a really fast course of.

Bartels: That’s Mike Persia, who makes a speciality of poultry vitamin and administration at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State College.

Persia: As these birds begin to develop into contaminated that total flock will simply cease vocalizing altogether as they don’t really feel nicely. From first detection, typically inside 24 to 48 hours you’re gonna have a really excessive mortality degree.

Bartels: That’s why after that devastating 2015 outbreak poultry farmers have labored actually exhausting to maintain fowl flu out of their flocks by means of what’s known as biosecurity measures, which embrace an entire host of methods meant to cease the unfold of the viruses into and between flocks.

A close up of a chicken, which is looking at the camera from its right side

A hen at a farm in upstate New York.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

Some farmers discourage wild birds and different potential viral carriers from getting too near their poultry by surrounding barns with gravel. They may additionally plant a row of timber alongside buildings to interrupt winds that might carry viral particles to chickens. They usually implement guidelines about what people do, corresponding to requiring private protecting gear and never permitting tools to be moved from one farm to a different. Mike says all these measures price cash, however they do appear to make a distinction in maintaining birds secure.

Probably the most painful biosecurity measure comes when a fowl flu an infection does hit a flock. As a result of the virus could be so deadly, consultants tasked with doing the terrible math have concluded that it’s higher for everybody to kill the entire flock instantly. A mass cull reduces the virus’s alternative to unfold and mutate. Mike says that’s powerful on farmers.

Persia: Yeah, I believe that’s’ one thing that doesn’t get sufficient consideration is the precise psychological results. Though these birds are raised for meals there’s nonetheless a bond that develops there between the birds and the farmer. Having to depopulate a whole constructing of birds, I believe that’s very exhausting on the farmers—not simply from a psychological standpoint, however that’s additionally how they derive their residing and their worth.

Bartels: Since 2022, 787 business flocks and 919 yard flocks within the U.S. have been contaminated, with a complete of greater than 174 million birds misplaced, in keeping with authorities knowledge as of early June. These numbers are brutal, however after the 2014–2015 outbreak of H5N2 and H5N8 poultry farmers knew what to anticipate from the virus when it comes to fowl losses. What they couldn’t have predicted was that the present outbreak would final so lengthy.

Earlier outbreaks of avian influenza within the U.S. ended within the summertime due to two components: migratory birds have gotten the place they had been going, in order that they’re not spreading the an infection geographically; and the virus traditionally hasn’t survived nicely in hotter circumstances.

However that modified this time round. Case charges have risen and fallen seasonally, identical to human flu infections do, however the virus has lingered, by no means fairly burning out. For greater than three years now avian influenza has circulated within the U.S. amongst wild birds and poultry farms.

Jada Thompson: It’s completely different than 2015. It didn’t go away after a yr.

Bartels: That’s Jada Thompson, an agricultural economist on the College of Arkansas. She says avian influenza has reshaped how the poultry business operates—and in methods we don’t essentially perceive once we stroll into the grocery retailer, regardless of all of the hubbub about egg costs.

Thompson: It’s modified how we produce our birds and the way we handle these farms within the U.S.

Bartels: However the impacts of fowl flu haven’t been felt evenly throughout the sector, which Jada explains is admittedly three or 4 industries in a single.

Thompson: We now have the turkeys, we’ve got layers, and we’ve got broilers.

Bartels: Turkeys are making the information quite a bit much less, however sure, they catch fowl flu, and it tends to hit them even tougher. Then there are the chickens.

A wide angle view of several turkeys behind a fence at a farm

Turkeys on a farm in upstate New York. They have not been within the information almost as a lot as hen in relation to avian influenza, however the virus impacts them as nicely.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

Thompson: The layer industries are laying these eggs that we eat; these are the eggs we purchase on the grocery retailer. And the broiler business are these chickens that we’re gonna eat.

Bartels: Within the background there’s additionally a breeding business, a provide chain that strikes new birds into every of those farms. Every mini business is situated in several elements of the nation, exposing them to completely different spillover threats from wild birds.

However there are additionally systemic variations that form fowl flu’s impression. Amongst chickens broilers are solely saved alive for about six to 9 weeks, so farmers are used to transferring them out and in of the system fairly rapidly. Jada says there’s additionally some proof suggesting these youthful birds could also be extra proof against avian influenza.

The egg layers are a unique story totally. Hens solely begin laying once they attain about six months previous; then these birds keep within the system for a yr or two, Jada says, making them a lot older on the finish of their manufacturing time. Meaning shedding a single layer has a much bigger financial impression on a farmer than shedding a single broiler.

Thompson: This isn’t simply: “Birds out right now, tomorrow we’ve changed them, after which all of us get on with our personal method.” The system can regulate, can squeeze somewhat bit, but it surely’s actually not going to completely recuperate till six months from now.

Bartels: These variations are a part of why hen costs stayed a lot steadier, whereas egg costs rose so dramatically. Jada says egg producers had been caught within the lag between shedding birds to avian influenza and biking new birds in, proper alongside the same old seasonal improve in total demand from November to March or April, pushed by the vacations.

Now that we’re previous massive egg season and new layers are at work, costs are coming down. The large query, in fact, is what’s going to occur subsequent autumn. Temperatures will fall, and birds will migrate once more, doubtlessly kicking off one other surge in poultry infections.

[CLIP: Cows moo.]

A view of a cow milking parlor that shows the cow's legs and utters and milking machines in a row

Dairy cows at Cornell College’s Instructing Dairy Barn in Ithaca, N.Y.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

Bartels: However we began our journey right now in a milking parlor, so let’s return to speaking about cows.

Diego Diel: Everyone was shocked initially with the detection and the spillover into dairy cows.

Bartels: That’s Diego Diel, who leads the Virology Lab at Cornell’s Animal Well being Diagnostic Heart.

As troublesome as fowl flu has been for the poultry business at the least these farmers had some familiarity with the an infection. For dairy farmers it was a completely surprising expertise. That makes quite a lot of sense given how stunning it was that avian influenza jumped into the animals that energy the nation’s milk provide.

Diel: Spillovers of viruses shouldn’t be one thing that occurs each day. There are a lot of components that need to align and be in place for that to occur.

Bartels: And spillovers of a usually avian virus into mammals are much more uncommon. As we discovered in episode one of many collection this specific pressure of fowl flu had already carried out that to a level, infecting wild carnivores corresponding to foxes and skunks inside months of arriving within the U.S.

Lisa Kercher: Wild birds are lifeless on the panorama in a lot larger numbers than earlier than with a way more virulent type of H5N1. What occurs is, terrestrial mammals have began to scavenge that. So that you’ve seen all that within the information, the place plenty of mammalian infections are taking place, and so that’s notably regarding. When the avian virus jumps right into a mammal it has the chance to mutate into—turning into extra mammalianlike.

Bartels: That’s Lisa Kercher, the virus hunter from St. Jude’s with the tricked-out camper-van-turned-lab you heard from in Episode One.

However is that this how the an infection of that first dairy herd occurred? As soon as the mysterious sickness in Texas cows was discovered to be H5N1 scientists pinpointed the doubtless spillover supply: an interplay between a sick wild fowl and a dairy cow round December 2023. From there, researchers decided, most sick cows have caught the virus from different cows.

The virus has made the bounce from wild birds to cows a pair extra instances within the yr and a half for the reason that unique spillover. However on the whole the virus appears to unfold immediately inside and between contaminated herds—greater than 1,000 to this point. And researchers consider that the unfold was doubtlessly accelerated by the dairy business’s reliance on transferring cows all through the nation, a mass bovine migration that’s largely invisible to folks on the skin.

Carolyn says that luckily, in contrast to these early days of 2024, dairy farmers now know what to search for, just like the cows cease consuming as a lot meals.

Kokko: I labored with this farm in Colorado remotely and will see from the consumption knowledge, every little thing simply dropped in the future, and it was superb.

A woman in coveralls stands with hands on hips outside an office door inside a barn

Carolyn Kokko, director of Cornell College’s Instructing Dairy Barn in Ithaca, N.Y.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

Bartels: Additionally they spend much less time chewing their cud. That’s one thing that every cow’s collar tracks, though this bovine Fitbit of types measures the animals’ contented lounging as a substitute of their day by day steps.

Carolyn says that the circulation of milk additionally slowed, with the milk machine’s day by day tally for every cow falling.

Kokko: To have the ability to establish a virus simply from one thing like that remotely, it was like, “They’ve bought fowl flu.”

Bartels: Fowl flu has been mostly detected in herds throughout the western half of the U.S., and H5N1 in dairy cows has come no nearer to Cornell than Ohio. However the dairy cow outbreak has introduced one other regarding growth: sick cats.

Lots of the early circumstances had been linked to dairies the place farm cats who drank uncooked milk grew to become very sick. Since then pet cats owned by dairy employees and even cats with no recognized exposures to the virus in any reservoir have additionally gotten sick. And in contrast to the cows, who usually recuperate from the virus, the cats are sometimes exhibiting neurological signs and even dying, which is kind of uncommon in cows.

So it’s no shock that Carolyn and her colleagues on the dairy barn are cautious, on guard for fowl flu to shock them once more.

Kokko: Issues can change. Viruses change. We all know that.

Bartels: However to see precisely how they will change you want viral surveillance. Just some minutes’ drive from the dairy barn sits a hub of that monitoring community: the Animal Well being Diagnostic Heart, the place Elisha and Diego work. The diagnostic middle is considered one of dozens of labs throughout the nation watching the fowl flu outbreak in cows unfold by monitoring milk.

However earlier than we go any additional it’s actually necessary to notice that checks have proven heat-based pasteurization kills H5N1 in milk. So consuming milk and having fun with different dairy merchandise remains to be tremendous secure, so long as you’re not consuming uncooked milk.

However one of many unusual elements of avian influenza and cattle is that it appears to have an effect on lactating cows probably the most. Means extra virus is present in an contaminated cow’s milk than in different kinds of samples. There are even hints that milk from contaminated cows carried by milking tools is doubtlessly transmitting the virus inside herds—and even to the occasional dairy employee who’s gotten a gentle an infection.

Nonetheless, cows have to be milked—rain or shine, sick or nicely. When a farmer is aware of their herd has fowl flu they will hold sick cows separate and discard their milk. But when they haven’t any cause to assume their cows are sick, they’ll sustain enterprise as traditional—now, typically with one further step: they will ship vials of milk from the large tanks the place the milking machines gather the products to a lab just like the one at Cornell.

[CLIP: Van driving up to dock.]

Bartels: Every day a number of vans roll as much as a small warehouse house on the laboratory constructing. Staffers unpack a pile of bins onto metallic carts, then roll them down the corridor to an enormous room known as “receiving.”

[CLIP: Boxes moving.]

A man in bioharzard personal protective equipment and mask sits at a desk surrounded by sample boxes and lab equipment

Esref Dogan, a lab processing supervisor on the Cornell Animal Well being Diagnostic Heart, processes milk samples to be examined for extremely pathogenic avian influenza in Ithaca, N.Y.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

Bartels: The samples are unpacked, checked in after which despatched up two flooring to the Molecular [Diagnostics] Lab.

Mani Lejeune: If you happen to get 100 samples a day or 500 samples a day, individually piping them out to a unique plate is time-consuming.

Bartels: That’s Mani Lejeune, who oversees the Molecular [Diagnostics] Lab. The crew is coordinating samples coming from New York in addition to states like California that want extra testing help than native labs can present.

Fortuitously for Mani and his colleagues, Cornell constructed up on-site testing capability throughout the worst days of COVID, together with buying two massive machines known as liquid handlers. These machines pull somewhat milk from every vial into one of many wells on a small plastic tray that permits the scientists to course of 93 samples at a time.

The tray makes a collection of stops across the lab, with a machine in every location dealing with one a part of the preparation.

John Beeby: And that different plate could be a wash plate.

Bartels (tape): Okay.

Beeby: That lets you begin washing all the different mobile materials off of that unique DNA pattern with a purpose to purify the DNA. And that’s, that’s actually our complete purpose right here, is isolating that DNA after which purifying it: simply pure DNA right here—DNA and RNA, each.

Bartels: That’s John Beeby, the lab supervisor, who walked me by means of the testing process, which depends on a course of known as polymerase chain response, or PCR. If it sounds acquainted, that’s as a result of it’s the method used within the 24-hour checks for COVID.

A man in a lab coat and mask stands at a fume hood surrounded by lab equipment

John Beeby of the Animal Well being Diagnostic Heart of Cornell College processes milk samples for bulk testing for H5N1.

Jeffery DelViscio/Scientific American

And it really works the identical method in relation to testing for fowl flu in milk. Scientists primarily add a tag that acknowledges and binds to genetic materials from the virus. Then the pattern is heated and cooled in a selected method that selectively duplicates no matter is certain to the tag. A fluorescent dye hooked up to the probe lights up throughout the course of.

Beeby: In order amplification occurs you really may have these samples giving off fluorescence that may then be detected by the optics.

Bartels: The extra virus in a selected pattern, the sooner within the course of it would begin to mild up, and the brighter it would get total. John says the entire course of within the lab, from vial to verdict, takes about 4 and a half hours. And it’ll all begin once more tomorrow.

When the Cornell crew finds fowl flu in a pattern it then will get despatched alongside to a different lab run by the U.S. Division of Agriculture for affirmation. There additionally they sequence the virus’s precise genome so scientists can see whether or not and the way it’s evolving. That info’s worth stretches far past dairy barns just like the one the place we began the day.

Right here’s Diego once more.

Diel: My perspective is, given what we’ve got seen to date, this virus is prone to proceed to flow into in dairy cows. The continual circulation of the virus in mammals can result in mutations that can make this virus extra tailored to the human receptor. That would improve the chance of an infection in people, severity of illness in people and the potential transmissibility of the virus from human to human.

Bartels: And people are getting sick from H5N1, though not very ceaselessly. Thus far the Facilities for Illness Management and Prevention has reported 70 confirmed fowl flu infections in people since 2024. The vast majority of these circumstances had been in farmworkers who had contact with sick cows or chickens, and a lot of the infections have been fairly gentle. However there’s no assure that can stay true.

Nancy Cox, who we heard from in episode one about her expertise main the CDC’s influenza department in 1997 throughout the first H5N1 outbreak in Hong Kong, sums up our present predicament.

Nancy Cox: It’s simply an unprecedented scenario. It simply locations the U.S. at larger danger for being the supply of a brand new pandemic pressure …

Bartels: Which is why scientists are exhausting at work growing vaccines that might defend folks from avian influenza.

Feltman: That’s all for right now’s episode. Tune in on Friday for the ultimate installment of this three-part collection, the place we’ll meet a few of the virologists racing to get a greater understanding of H5N1—and hopefully hold it from turning into the world’s subsequent pandemic.

Science Shortly is produced by me, Rachel Feltman, together with Fonda Mwangi, Kelso Harper, Naeem Amarsy and Jeff DelViscio. This episode was reported and hosted by Meghan Bartels and edited by Alex Sugiura. Shayna Posses and Aaron Shattuck fact-check our present. Our theme music was composed by Dominic Smith. Particular due to Becka Bowyer and Kaitlyn Serrao at Cornell College and to Kimberly Lau, Dean Visser and Jeanna Bryner at Scientific American. Subscribe to Scientific American for extra up-to-date and in-depth science information.

For Scientific American, that is Rachel Feltman. See you subsequent time.

Further reporting by Lauren J. Younger.

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