The rules for potential flight attendants within the Fifties sound extra like an open name for fashions than requirements for airline staff. In a single 1955 doc, TWA spells out their air hostess {qualifications}: “Age, 20-27; Peak, 5’2” to five’8”; Weight, 100 to 135 kilos scaled to peak,” “should have clear pores and skin,” “have to be single, though the corporate will settle for widows or divorcees with out youngsters.”
These rigorous, and retro, necessities outlining the archetypal air hostess continued into the Nineties when girls introduced a case in opposition to U.S. Air, now American Airways, New York Historic curator Nina Nazionale informed Observer. The case, which raised however didn’t get rid of weight restrictions for flight attendants, revolved across the airline’s coverage that cabin staff keep a “agency, trim silhouette, freed from bulges, rolls or paunches . . . for an alert, environment friendly picture.”
Whereas flight attendants have at all times obtained some degree of emergency coaching—first support to begin after which in depth coaching in security and evacuation protocols—the job was largely seen, discriminatorily, as “lady’s work.” Nazionale defined that within the Nineteen Thirties, United Airways employed precise nurses: the business craft of the period tended to be small and low-flying, in a relentless, vertiginous dance of touchdown and taking off. Passengers typically felt unwell and required care. However apart from being caretakers, these enticing younger girls served as shiny distractions. Within the Sixties, advertising supplies like posters went as far as to ramp up the sexual attract of the ‘stews’—suppose adverts with the phrases “Fly me” in daring beside pictures of flight attendants.
But regardless of these derogatory practices, stewardessing was an enormous alternative for younger girls from modest households who wished to journey the world. On the entrance of “Eating in Transit,” now on on the New York Historic, sits a vitrine showcasing a basic TWA hostess hat. Nazionale talked about that she met with the daughter of the proprietor of the chapeau; she stated the place was one of the best factor that ever occurred to her mom, even when she needed to stop when she obtained married.
The exhibition, although it considers the plight of early flight attendants, is definitely centered on the meals they served—together with that eaten on different vessels within the early twentieth Century. It’s a distinct segment matter, however one which reveals far more than merely our consuming habits. The supplies right here have interaction with social points and world battle. However foodies fear not: the culinary takes heart stage, and plenty of classic menus stuffed with mouth-watering choices are on show.
“It was very sensible,” Nazionale stated, “as a result of they took what’s a necessity and made it a need.” Eating experiences grew to become advertising units for airways, trains and boats. She was notably fascinated by spotlighting what she referred to as the “extraordinary inside the peculiar.” And so the present contains reams of historic and art-historical artifacts associated to the theme—ornate menus, pictures of maximalist eating rooms and even a cookbook—within the small Pam & Scott Schafler Gallery. In a single nook, a classy blue tv cycles by way of movie clips from the Nineteen Thirties by way of the Fifties that tackle the motif of consuming on the transfer.
Many vessels and autos, in planning their fare, borrowed from the cuisines of Europeans—most notably the eating expertise français, seen because the gold normal. A 1906 menu from “Ritz’s Carlton Restaurant” aboard the S.S. Kaiserin Auguste Victoria is full with swirly lettering and curlicues. Movie star Parisian chef Auguste Escoffier oversaw its kitchens and the creation of those extremely choreographed meals. Menus on different modes of transport embody such dishes as “cépes à la grecque,” “consommé froid en tasse” and “compôte of pears, damsons, blackberries and whipped cream.” That stated, regional American delicacies additionally performed a big half in honing the culinary identities of various vessels, particularly with signature dishes and luxury meals.
For Nazionale, analysis is one of the best a part of the curatorial course of. One discovery results in the following, and also you’re quickly immersed in a world of enlightening articles and distinctive objects. The vast majority of the supplies in “Eating in Transit” come instantly from New York Historic’s personal repository—Nazionale’s impetus for the exhibition was their sturdy menu assortment—however the exhibit borrows extra digital supplies from sources like Duke’s David M. Rubenstein Library and the San Diego Air and Area Museum Archive; the one bodily borrowed object is a 1911 “Good Issues to Eat” cookbook self-published by Rufus Estes.
Estes was considered one of many previously enslaved Black males employed by the Pullman Palace Automobile Firm. “It was not a secret that Pullman wished to rent previously enslaved Black males,” Nazionale stated. The label textual content reads that “He valued their service expertise, particularly the habits they realized whereas enslaved: deferential lodging,” nevertheless it’s value stating that Black employees unionized in 1925, which led to an enchancment in pay and therapy. Nazionale defined that “Pullman households” remodeled right into a cultural custom that introduced communities collectively, and this historical past—and its subsequent ripple results—is filled with nuance and issues.
Different transportation corporations employed cooks from everywhere in the world. United Airways introduced in Swiss cooks to jazz up their choices. A menu from the early Fifties portrays cartoon photographs of three cooks with puffy white hats and typed bios beside “The Hollywood” meal.
As Individuals gravitated towards vacationer locations like Hawaii within the postwar years, airways conjured vacation menus to make vacationers really feel like every journey was additional particular. Nationwide and worldwide battle undoubtedly affected the methods these autos operated, not solely altering routes but additionally altering menus due to rationing legal guidelines.
Visually, the exhibition provides a singular gustatory window into what touring was like within the days earlier than slimline seats and draconian baggage charges. However to get a literal style of early twentieth-century transportation delicacies, make your strategy to New York Historic’s restaurant, Clara, which is presently serving desserts impressed by the delicacies featured in “Eating in Transit.”
“Eating in Transit” is on the New York Historic by way of October 26, 2025.
