Vacationers don’t usually enterprise to Chiswick, a west London neighborhood with a captivating communal really feel, as a result of it appears too off the overwhelmed path. The world is even prevented by some Londoners, who’re additionally beneath the misperception that it’s too far faraway from the middle of city. However those that do go to might be enticed by The Silver Birch, a seasonal superb eating restaurant helmed by chef Nathan Cornwell.
The restaurant, positioned on Chiswick’s excessive avenue, initially opened in October 2020 beneath chef Kimberley Hernandez. Cornwell took over the restaurant, based by Tim Worth, in 2024, and has since targeted on making a refined, compelling tasting menu that showcases one of the best of British elements. Whereas the culinary providing and the service have come extra simply, the seemingly distant neighborhood has proved difficult.
“Location is large for a restaurant,” Cornwell says, chatting with Observer in early December. “Not simply by way of accolades, however by way of footfall. I’m not saying it’s the end-all be-all; it has to even be all the way down to the idea and the meals.”
He provides that there’s something underrated a couple of restaurant exterior the middle of city being good worth for its visitors. The eight-course tasting menu prices £120, whereas the shorter set five-course menu is £90. A number of snacks and a beneficiant serving of house-made bread and butter accompany each choices. “If we have been in central London, you’d be paying extra of a premium,” Cornwell notes.
The expertise at The Silver Birch actually stands up properly towards any of London’s buzzy Michelin-starred eating places, notably these targeted on related delicacies, like Aulis and Cycene. Each tasting menus spotlight British merchandise, together with Devon crab, South Down Sika deer and Norfolk squash. Firstly of the meal, Cornwell seems tableside with a tray of all of the elements. It’s one thing different eating places, like Moor Corridor, do across the U.Ok., nevertheless it’s not typical in London.
“Folks by no means see what a kohlrabi seems like,” Cornwell says. “It’s good to clarify it while you serve the dish, nevertheless it’s higher to indicate the shoppers what you’re doing and the hassle that goes into it.”
Cornwell has felt a connection to elements since earlier than he grew to become knowledgeable chef. He grew up within the countryside of Cambridgeshire, in a city referred to as Ely. His dad grew greens and took Cornwell fishing, and his mother was a cooking teacher at a neighborhood highschool. “The most effective of what meals could possibly be, I had seen at such a younger age,” he remembers. “It wasn’t something fancy. We might choose recent tomatoes within the morning, grill them and put them on some toast. But it surely was one thing folks don’t get to do as adults, not to mention as a five-year-old. I believe that actually kicked off my love of meals.”
The chef began working in a close-by restaurant whereas nonetheless in class, nevertheless it was incomes a scholarship to the Academy of Culinary Arts that was game-changing for Cornwell. He left house at 16 to enroll within the course, which consisted of three months of college in Bournemouth, adopted by a placement at a restaurant. By happenstance, he landed at luxurious lodge Lucknam Park beneath the tutelage of chef Hywel Jones. He spent three years there as a part of the course, and ended up remaining for 2 extra years.
“It was fairly surreal leaving house at that age,” Cornwell says. “But it surely was pivotal by way of exhibiting you what you wanted to do and the way devoted you needed to be and the way constant you needed to be. The course was powerful, and lots of people dropped out. I keep in mind calling my dad just a few instances being like, ‘Can I come house?’ He all the time mentioned, ‘No, you’re going to see it by way of.’”
After Lucknam Park, Cornwell hung out at Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham earlier than stints at eating places in Denmark and Sweden. He ultimately moved to The Barn at Moor Corridor, the place he was the chef for 4 years. Cornwell earned the restaurant its first Michelin star.
“It was a tough interval, particularly with Covid,” he says. “We had a number of totally different challenges. Once I took it over, The Barn was extra of a neighborhood restaurant, very classical. After these 4 years, it had a booming enterprise for lunch and dinner, and we had a star. It was unbelievable and loopy—one thing I’d dreamed about for a really very long time. I all the time mentioned I wished a star earlier than I turned 30, and I did it about two weeks earlier than my birthday.”
Cornwell was conscious of the inherent challenges when he agreed to maneuver to London and take over The Silver Birch after departing Moor Corridor. The restaurant “didn’t have a lot by way of character or route,” so it was as much as Cornwell to channel his imaginative and prescient into the area. There was extra competitors than he’d had at The Barn, which is positioned in a tiny village exterior of Liverpool. It was additionally tougher to forage or backyard within the metropolis.
“My plan was to make it very seasonal and really British, and to make use of as a lot produce as I might from the U.Ok.,” Cornwell says. “I wished to give attention to making it scrumptious, easy and unfussy. I attempted to create a menu I’d like to eat on my break day—just a few snacks, an aperitif, just a few starters, a most important course. We tried doing à la carte, and we ended up with a variety of waste. Now we’ve a a lot less complicated menu, and it really works properly for us.”
Though the dishes change with the seasons, just a few have develop into signatures. The Devon crab is introduced in a caviar tin with a dollop of caviar and served alongside buttery crumpets—a really Instagram-ready second. Cornwell initially supplied his crab dish in a crab shell, however has revised it over the previous two years. “It wasn’t prefer it went viral, nevertheless it’s been an actual hit,” he says. “So we’ve all the time achieved a crab dish in some type.” Different constants are quite a lot of tartare (I had one with beef) and pasta. Cornwell additionally likes to nod to fish and chips, one other factor he enjoys consuming on a break day.
“That’s the place a few of my concepts truly come about,” he says. “So possibly I might do a tempura cod cheek on the facet. The traditional phrase is, ‘In the event you wouldn’t eat it, why would you serve it?’ I wish to assume that I’m cooking my fashion, and on the similar time, I’m cooking meals that individuals wish to get pleasure from. I clearly need it to look aesthetically pleasing, however that’s by no means my most important intention.”
Though Cornwell doesn’t have the area for his personal backyard at The Silver Birch, he does develop herbs like oxalis and nasturtium in planters out again. He forages as a lot as doable round London. He and his crew collect elements like elderflower, blackberries and meadowsweet from alongside the Thames, and make as a lot use of them as doable. No matter elderflower isn’t utilized in summer season dishes is distilled into vinegar. “We use it as a end in a variety of the sauces and even pickles, as properly,” Cornwell says. “Each time you open it up, the scent reminds you of summer season.”
That emphasis on lowering waste is obvious all through the kitchen. Shares are used greater than as soon as, and the peelings from root greens are reworked into sauces. Once I dined in November, the squash pasta was served with a scrumptious umami broth created from that vegetable waste. “I wished to make one thing actually intense with the leftovers, however make one thing additionally actually fascinating on the similar time,” Cornwell notes. “I believe that’s a stunning factor to do.”
Cornwell thrives on presenting himself with new challenges. He’s developed a greater work-life stability at The Silver Birch, thanks partly to his sturdy crew. However he is aware of that you could all the time proceed to evolve a plate of meals. “I wish to look again at my footage from once I began out creating dishes, and it wasn’t very refined,” he says. “It wasn’t sharp. And as I look through the years, I see it turning into sharper, extra fascinating and extra refined. I’m discovering my fashion increasingly more.”
The identical is true for The Silver Birch. A Michelin star is one in every of Cornwell’s objectives, however not only for the bragging rights. He is aware of that the accolade would encourage diners and vacationers to enterprise west into Chiswick. It’s a variety of strain to take care of the standard, the eye and the enjoyment.
“As a chef, you’re both chasing a star, otherwise you’re attempting to take care of it, otherwise you’re attempting to get to the following stage,” Cornwell says. “Both method, you’re shedding sleep, you’re confused, you’re taking it out on different folks. You’re questioning, ‘Is the bathroom paper adequate? Is the hand cleaning soap price three stars?’ I can’t say I’m banking on a star or that I deserve it, however it might assist. It reveals the usual of a restaurant, and that brings folks in.”
He provides, “I believe we’ve obtained one thing actually particular right here in Chiswick, which doesn’t exist in different elements of London. I imagine it’ll all come collectively, nevertheless it’s a protracted journey. Everybody all the time needs to say they’ve this undiscovered secret restaurant. We really feel like we’re that, however nobody needs to inform the key.”
That’s, till now—as a result of it’s time to share that secret.
