I Thought Giraffe Manor Was the Coolest Keep within the World—Then I Discovered This Place

There’s probability you haven’t heard of Saruni Samburu. I hadn’t both, not less than not till I discovered myself bouncing up a steep rocky observe in northern Kenya, half-convinced we had been misplaced. The highway tousled the facet of a cliff, mud swirling behind us. Our driver grinned and known as it “the Saruni Freeway,” promising the climb can be value it.

It already had so much to dwell as much as. My husband and I had simply come from Giraffe Manor in Nairobi — the resort the place giraffes poke their heads by means of your window at breakfast. It’s the form of place that floods your Instagram feed, the one everybody acknowledges. I didn’t assume something might high it. Then we reached the cliff’s edge, and the land fell away beneath us.

Saruni Samburu revealed itself slowly: a handful of villas constructed into volcanic rock, perched above 200,000 acres of untouched wilderness within the Kalama Conservancy. The warmth shimmered, and the sky stretched perpetually. For the primary time that journey, every part went quiet.

A Lodge on the Fringe of the Wild

Saruni Samburu is small — solely six villas, every folded into the cliff as if it had grown there by itself. My husband and I stayed in Villa 3, a brief, uphill stroll from the primary lodge. “Brief” is relative when it’s already pushing ninety levels earlier than breakfast, however as soon as we stepped inside, the warmth didn’t matter.

The villa opened to the valley. There was a separate bed room, a sitting and eating space, and a terrace that appeared over miles of untouched land. A small fridge held chilly drinks, and a jug of filtered water sat beside reusable bottles. Laundry service was included — a small mercy when your bush-plane allowance caps at 33 kilos per individual (and my digicam gear is pushing 20 kilos!).

The lavatory felt like an out of doors spa with twin sinks, a deep tub, and a bathe open to the sky. The water stress was excellent, and the handmade soaps smelled faintly of cedar and herbs. I’m nonetheless aggravated I didn’t purchase them from the reward store.

Between Drives

Afternoons moved in sluggish movement. The warmth wrapped the lodge in stillness, and most visitors drifted towards the infinity swimming pools. One sits close to the primary space; the opposite is greater up, with a view that appears straight into perpetually. Monkeys generally lingered by the water, watching us as if we had been the novelty.

There’s a small spa as effectively. My husband used our complimentary therapeutic massage whereas I sat by the pool with a e-book, too lazy to show the pages. At Saruni, doing nothing appears like a part of the rhythm.

When night got here, the workers set out beanbags by the open-air bar for stargazing. Benson, the headwaiter and resident stargazer, identified constellations with a laser, his voice low and regular. It’s laborious to explain how huge the sky feels that removed from metropolis gentle — like somebody turned the world the other way up and let the celebs spill out.

Meals Value Remembering

Meals wasn’t one thing I anticipated to care about right here. You’re hours from the closest grocery retailer, however each meal felt considerate and recent. The lodge leans Italian with handmade pasta, crisp salads, and heat bread. Lunch and dinner had been three programs however by no means heavy. (I’m nonetheless dreaming concerning the meals from Saruni.)

Every morning, we had been introduced espresso and cookies to our door earlier than dawn. Later, we’d cease by the river for breakfast: pancakes, bacon, fruit, yogurt. As soon as, we watched elephants graze as we ate. I keep in mind considering that this was what quiet happiness felt like.

One evening, the workers shocked us with dinner beneath the celebs. They arrange a bonfire and invited just a few Samburu dancers to sing. The fireplace crackled, the evening was heat, and it felt just like the world had shrunk to that circle of sunshine.

Guides Who Convey the Land to Life

Our information, Simon Lepasiele, grew up on this area. His monitoring expertise appeared unattainable. He might spot a leopard by means of the comb whereas telling tales about his childhood right here.

The primary afternoon of our keep, we noticed a lioness calling out for her misplaced cubs, her haunting voice echoing by means of the hills. On our final morning, Simon immediately stopped the jeep, pointing to some small paw prints, no larger than a home cat’s. He adopted them till we discovered her once more — this time along with her cubs tucked beside her in a dense bush.

It was an emotional second that made me notice how a lot these guides learn the land in methods we by no means might. The enjoyment of the opposite Saruni guides crackling over the radio at this information can be one thing I’ll always remember. The guides in Samburu really care concerning the land and its animals.

Every villa additionally has its personal host who handles each meal and drink. Ours, one other Simon, appeared to look every time we would have liked him — espresso at daybreak, chilly water within the afternoon, wine at sundown. His kindness made the keep really feel private, not polished.

A Totally different Form of Safari

Samburu doesn’t compete with the Maasai Mara; it tells a special story. Whereas animal sightings aren’t as plentiful as within the Mara, you’ll have to work a bit for them. There additionally aren’t hordes of safari automobiles crowding round animals, like within the Mara. This can be a place that feels untouched by mass tourism, a spot that’s really wild.

It’s residence to the “Samburu Particular 5” — animals you gained’t discover farther south: the reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich, gerenuk, and beisa oryx. We noticed all of them, plus herds of elephants so giant it felt just like the land itself was transferring. Samburu has SO many elephants. It’s simply superb.

How We Booked It

I deliberate this journey by means of Go2Africa, a journey firm that got here really helpful by different vacationers I belief. Lauren, our marketing consultant, paired us with Saruni Lodges and made every part seamless.

We visited in February, the mid-season. At the moment, charges began round $700 per individual per evening, together with meals, sport drives, drinks, and transfers. Sundowners — these cocktails you sip whereas the solar dips behind the hills — come customary, not additional.

For what it provides, it’s value each cent.

What Stayed With Me

On our remaining morning, I stood on the terrace watching the sunshine shift over the valley. The air was nonetheless, aside from the faint sound of birds waking someplace under.

Giraffe Manor had been unforgettable, however Saruni Samburu left a special mark. Samburu just isn’t about theatrics or photo-ops. It’s about house — the sort that stretches your sense of time and leaves you a bit quieter inside.

I hardly ever return to the identical vacation spot twice. There’s an excessive amount of world left to see. However I’d climb that rocky highway once more with out hesitation.

You’ll be able to see extra from our keep at Saruni Samburu in my full YouTube video under.

For those who’re planning an analogous journey, you’ll be able to learn my submit on what to put on on safari in Kenya for sensible packing suggestions and outfit concepts. And for those who’re inquisitive about one other unforgettable keep, right here’s my full story on Saruni Rhino — the place we tracked endangered black rhinos on foot.