Vogue World: Hollywood was a flex for the journal and a long-overdue recognition of the affect movie has on vogue. Additionally, Swarovski’s must-see “Masters of Gentle: Hollywood” exhibition of vogue and costume is on show and open to the general public till Nov. 3.
Vogue World: Hollywood Is a Rah-Rah for the Style and Movie Industries
With Paramount Studios serving as a runway stage, Baz Luhrmann directing, a Chanel-clad Nicole Kidman starring, and a stacked celeb forged and entrance row, Vogue World: Hollywood was a joyous mashup of vogue and movie, that includes iconic Hollywood costumes, characters, fresh-off-the-runway vogue and archival appears to be like.
Say what you’ll about it being a pointless advertising train, and lots of on-line have mentioned precisely that, however it was a rah-rah for each struggling industries, and a flex for Vogue, which is the one model on the planet that would have pulled in all that star energy. It additionally raised $4.5 million for the Leisure Group Fund, offering a security web for arts employees hit notably exhausting this 12 months.
Sunday’s occasion introduced 400-plus friends to the Paramount lot, together with what had been certainly probably the most well-known extras in historical past. “Image’s up, locations please, image’s up!” a stage supervisor known as over the bullhorn as they arrived on set.
“They’re stressing everyone out as a result of all of us really do that and if you say image’s up it’s severe!” Miley Cyrus mentioned, strolling in incognito carrying a Saint Laurent leather-based trench, newsboy cap and sun shades.
“I’m searching for the subsequent movement image star!” stylist Brad Goreski joked, wanting each bit the studio boss in a dapper swimsuit, sun shades and slicked-back hair, arriving with Ashley Park in a corseted Wiederhoeft gown that carried a way of costume.
Stars from music (Rita Ora, V, Machine Gun Kelly, Lizzo), movie (Dakota Johnson, Gwyneth Paltrow, Cynthia Erivo, Taika Waititi), costume (Sandy Powell, Ruth E. Carter, Colleen Atwood), vogue (Anthony Vaccarello, Zac Posen, Jerry Lorenzo) and different energy gamers in Anna Wintour’s orbit (Gov. Gavin Newsom, Bryan Lourd, Tyler Perry, Casey Wasserman) strolled previous props, costume rails and spotlights on their strategy to director’s chair seats.
The runway was high-energy and quick — folks had been having enjoyable! — which is one thing we want extra of in vogue and labored nicely for the 35-minute livestream of the present. Whereas it was complicated to determine what was designer-made and what was costume, that will have been the purpose.
The artwork types have blurred. Costume designers have dipped their toes into vogue design and collaborated with luxurious manufacturers on movies, to not point out regularly influencing runway and road type decade after decade. In the meantime, vogue designers are casting Hollywood faces as model ambassadors, bringing much more showmanship to their runway reveals and clothes to achieve digital audiences, and even entering into producing and costuming Hollywood movies.
All of it was on show on the runway.
L.A.-based designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy had been working in each worlds lengthy earlier than Anthony Vaccarello and Saint Laurent Movies started producing awards-contending films. They designed costumes for the 2010 movie “Black Swan,” have cited the affect of movies together with “Suspiria” and “Star Wars” on lots of their runway collections over time, and made their very own 2017 function movie, “Woodshock.” So it was becoming that a number of of their appears to be like appeared on the Vogue World runway.
There was once extra of an impervious line between Hollywood costume and vogue; costume was for character constructing and serving a script, vogue was purely business. However all that’s gone out the window, as the connection between Hollywood and vogue has grow to be symbiotic.
“On this period, persons are in a position to step out of the containers extra and work together within the two fields concurrently, and it’s accepted and celebrated,” Laura Mulleavy instructed me, noting that it was one other polymath, Shirley Kurata, their longtime runway stylist and the costume designer for the 2022 movie “All the things In every single place All At As soon as,” who curated the night’s up to date character costumes.
This recognition of costume designers’ contributions to visible tradition — and to vogue, together with numerous assortment temper boards — was lengthy overdue. I can’t inform you what number of occasions I’ve previewed a set with a designer who talks about being impressed by a specific movie with out naming, and even figuring out, the costume designer. Hopefully, that mindset will begin to change.
The picture under says all of it concerning the stream of creativity and reference from one world to the opposite — Wintour poses with costume designer Mona Might and her iconic yellow plaid swimsuit, as worn by Alicia Silverstone within the 1995 movie “Clueless,” alongside a checked swimsuit in the identical spirit by designer Thom Browne.
There was so much to have a look at on the runway. Among the highlights: Kendall Jenner as a “Moulin Rouge!” showgirl in a leggy look from costume designer Catherine Martin, and “Nice Gatsby” flappers — together with Elizabeth Debicki — carrying beaded robes Martin created for the 2013 movie in collaboration with Prada.
The tribute to the late, nice type icon Diane Keaton and her influential “Annie Corridor” look was not solely touching however telling of how costume and vogue can intersect. It was initially developed by Keaton in 1977 with costume designer Ruth Morley, utilizing some items from her private wardrobe and a few from Ralph Lauren, who recreated the search for the runway right here, and has referenced it many occasions in his vogue collections over time. There have been additionally homages to the unforgettable costumes of “The Royal Tenenbaums” (Karen Patch), “As soon as Upon a Time in Hollywood” (Arianne Phillips) and “Edward Scissorhands” (Colleen Atwood).
Angela Bassett closed the Afrofuturism part wanting regal in her Ruth E. Carter robe on the heels of dancing “Black Panther” Wakandan warriors. Greta Lee labored a theatrical look and tricorne hat from vogue/costume designer Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior assortment proven simply weeks in the past. Jeff Goldblum owned his Gucci sequin jacket and his runway stroll, and Julia Garner skipped down the runway as the image of baroque frivolity in a Milena Canonero for “Marie Antoinette” costume.
Gracie Abrams performed the a part of Chanel ambassador, performing in a fresh-off-the-runway look by Matthieu Blazy, whereas Doja Cat shook her hips in a chainmail gown impressed by Tina Turner in “Mad Max Past Thunderdome,” however executed by L.A.’s Michael Schmidt, a too-often unsung hero of costume design and fabrication. It was a blast and no person wished it to finish.
On the way in which out, I bumped into “Frankenstein” costume designer Kate Hawley, whose ravishing work, together with curating Tiffany & Co. archival jewels and customized items for the movie, is proof that the love affair between costume and vogue isn’t ending anytime quickly.
Style’s FYC Season
Manufacturers have descended on L.A. in what I’m calling vogue’s FYC (For Your Consideration) interval within the lead-up to awards season.
All the things from Boucheron jewels and hot-off-the-runway Versace to designer Camilla Franks’ enjoyable, rock ’n’ roll resortwear and Le Monde Beryl’s red-carpet-ready silk pumps is being showcased for celebrities and stylists at spectacular occasions, rented resort rooms and showrooms throughout town. The aim? To create media moments, construct relationships and make offers as alternatives to decorate up, ramp up over the subsequent few months.
Swarovski joined the refrain Tuesday, asserting its function as chief embellisher of vogue and movie. International artistic director Giovanna Engelbert and CEO Alexis Nasard hosted the opening of the Swarovski “Masters of Gentle” immersive exhibition — following stops in Vienna, Milan, Shanghai and Seoul — curated by Alexander Fury with a Hollywood focus for this version.
Not like most vogue happenings, that is open to the general public, by Nov. 3 within the former Amoeba Music house.
Cher, Viola Davis, Kylie Jenner, Elizabeth Olsen, Jeff Goldblum and lots of extra turned out for the sparkly opening, exploring galleries showcasing Swarovski’s 130 12 months historical past of bedazzling vogue, jewellery, dwelling decor and extra.
The model has a century-long historical past in Hollywood, from lighting up Dorothy’s ruby purple slippers in “The Wizard of Oz” (there’s a pair within the exhibition), to creating the jewels worn by Marilyn Monroe in “Gents Favor Blondes” (additionally right here), to partnering with the Academy Awards, and on many a fancy dress and purple carpet gown.
Like Vogue World, the exhibition is a dialog between vogue and costume — and filled with eye sweet — together with the Jean-Louis and Bob Mackie-designed nude phantasm gown worn by Monroe when she sang “Pleased Birthday” to President John F. Kennedy, and by Kim Kardashian to the Met Gala, which had its personal velvet-roped vestibule.
Demonstrating how costumes have impressed vogue, Travis Banton’s gold silk, glass bead, bullion, crystal and mink “Fabergé” gown — mentioned to be one of the vital costly ever produced by Paramount and worn by Marlene Dietrich within the 1937 movie “Angel” — is displayed subsequent to a 2024 Marc Jacobs robe impressed by it.
“Masters of Gentle” provides a window into the model’s craft and design course of in vivid colour, and lots of extra present stopping appears to be like, together with Josephine Baker’s unbelievable metallic and crystal bra and feather costume from “La Revue Nègre,” Katy Perry’s iconic Jeremy Scott chandelier gown, a crystallized Harry Types jumpsuit and extra worn by Cher, Madonna, Grace Jones, Beyoncé, Tina Turner, Carey Mulligan and extra. Tickets might be bought right here.
Glowing from Coast to Coast
In the meantime in New York, Messika jewellery celebrated its twentieth anniversary, and the opening of a brand new Madison Avenue flagship, with a glittering dinner at The Frick Assortment bringing collectively a cross-section of celebrities, vogue insiders and buddies of the model.
Greater than 120 friends, together with Julianne Moore, Charlotte Lawrence, Nina Dobrev, Kiko Mizuhara, Orlando Bloom, and Gunna, gathered within the museum’s galleries for a night that blended haute joaillerie and haute delicacies.
In a intelligent twist, fashions dressed as servers and glided by the eating room in a trompe-l’œil efficiency, revealing Messika’s excessive jewellery items as they moved.
The centerpiece was the So Transfer Rainbow Excessive Jewellery set, with 24 sapphire shades and rubies created solely for the brand new boutique. Rainbow hues ran all through the occasion — from the picture name backdrop to the desk settings to the anniversary cake.
Produced by We Are Ona, recognized for its immersive culinary occasions, the dinner featured a customized menu by Chef Alexia Duchêne, and culminated in a soulful efficiency by Toni Braxton.
“This opening is greater than a milestone,” Valérie Messika, who based the trendy jewellery model in Paris in 2005, mentioned. “It’s a bridge between Paris and New York, between savoir-faire and emotion, and the start of a luminous new chapter for Messika in america.”
All The Cool Ladies…
Former journal editors Laura Brown and Kristina O’Neill have been crisscrossing the nation with their new e book, “All The Cool Ladies Get Fired,” which I had the pleasure of interviewing them about onstage at Reese Witherspoon’s Shine Away occasion a pair weekends again.
It’s a well timed learn for individuals who, ahem, have been laid off, with private anecdotes from Oprah, Katie Couric, Jamie Lee Curtis and others, in addition to sensible recommendation about COBRA and psychological well being — all of the enjoyable stuff.
The authors had been again in L.A. final week for a celebration on the Tory Burch retailer the place Kiernan Shipka, Lake Bell, Jurnee Smollett and others took turns studying excerpts from the e book. Monica Lewinsky stole the present, nevertheless, together with her introduction: “I don’t imply to point out anybody up, however I used to be fired from the White Home!”
I requested friends for his or her getting-fired tales. Burch has by no means been fired (after all she hasn’t). Cindy Crawford was requested to go away a Bruce Weber shoot as soon as, however fashions don’t get fired a lot as they don’t get booked, she mentioned.
Stylist/supervisor/producer Jeanne Yang was fired from her job as a salesman within the Bullocks Wilshire lingerie division means again when, which led her to Particulars journal and ultimately to styling—an excellent factor on reflection.
A setback that was actually a setup, as they are saying. Cheers to that.
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